Program History


British_Museum,_Great_Court_roof_(Andrew_Dunn,_CC-by-sa2.0).jpg
British Museum, Great Court roof (Andrew Dunn, CC-by-sa2.0)


You will be registered for History 40, 41 and 97 with the Registrar's Office.

40. Foreign Study Program: London in History

Through lectures, readings, discussions, and fieldwork this course explores aspects of London’s history from medieval to modern times. Using the city itself as a living laboratory for historical thinking, the course relates the development of London and its neighborhoods to the larger concentric histories of nation, region, empire, and world. Prerequisite: membership in the Foreign Study Program.

41. Foreign Study Program: History Study Abroad

Graded credit for this course is awarded to students who have successfully completed an approved course offered by the History faculty of University College London while a member of the Dartmouth Foreign Study Program in History. Selections for 2010 include: “The Remaking of the English Working Class, 1660-1785”; “Remembering Slavery: Britain, Colonial Slavery and Abolition”; “Marx and History”; “Making of a Multicultural City”; “Crime and Popular Disorder in Georgian England” and “Everyday Life in 20th Century European Dictatorships.”

97. Independent Study

This course offers an opportunity for a student to pursue some subject of special interest under the direction of a member of the Department through a specially designed program of readings and reports.
In consultation with members of the Dartmouth faculty, each student will design and carry out an independent project which makes use of London’s unique research opportunities. The project may relate to any aspect of British, European, and World History.



General Country Information




Before You Go


Medical evacuation and travel assistance programDartmouth College has contracted with a company called International SOS (ISOS) to provide worldwide assistance and evacuation services for all study abroad participants. More information about the ISOS program can be found by visiting the following web site: http://www.internationalsos.com. The group membership number for all Dartmouth College students, faculty and staff is: 11BSGC000018. A scanned copy of your passport can be stored at the Dartmouth College International SOS website. Follow the link “Activate your Emergency Record” and use the Dartmouth College group membership number and Additional information about the ISOS program will be distributed at the mandatory Health and Safety Meeting held each term.
Passport All off-campus program participants are required to have a valid passport. Some countries require that your U.S. passport be valid at least 6 months or longer beyond the dates of your trip. If your passport expires before the required validity, you will have to apply for a new one. If you have not already applied for your passport, please do so immediately. Be sure to keep a photocopy of the front page of your passport at home and in several other places. If you should lose your passport this will help expedite the process of getting a new one. In country, you should carry a photocopy of your passport with you at all times. A scanned copy of your passport can be stored at the Dartmouth College International SOS website. Please log on to the ISOS website using the Dartmouth College group membership number and follow the link “Activate your Emergency Record.”
Health insurance
If you have waived Dartmouth Student Group Health Plan (DSGHP) enrollment because you have other health insurance, please be certain to check your policy to see that coverage is extended to accidents and illnesses sustained outside the U.S. If you do not have a copy of your policy, contact your insurance company or insurance agent. Please note that all off-campus program participants (with the DSGHP or with other insurance) will be responsible for handling any medical bills, claim forms, etc., while abroad. Neither the Dartmouth faculty member in residence nor the College will assume any financial responsibilities. In an emergency, needless to say, our faculty members will provide as much assistance to you as possible. Prior to departure you are urged to discuss personal health plan coverage with your parents and your insurance carrier. Be certain to have proper health insurance identification with you, along with any instructions needed should you have to file a claim. Students are advised that insurance cards may not be accepted in some countries and that cash may be required to pay for some services, care and/or prescriptions. Students will be responsible for filing any and all claims. Be sure to check your plan document for deductibles, co-payments, prescription coverage, etc.



Getting There & Getting Settled




Accommodations


Prior year History students have stayed in three separate flats located in Hampden House on 2 Weymouth Street. Accomodation is currently being negociated (leased flats through Euracom in London). Additional housing information will follow once the details are finalized.
Housing is difficult to obtain in London, and we may want to utilize this housing for future Dartmouth programs, so please be respectful of the facility and the other residents. Any damage fees will be charged to your student account at Dartmouth.



Money


Expenses
  • Tuition - $14,594.00. This charge will be billed to your student account.
  • Accommodations in shared housing, including wireless internet and fully equipped kitchens. Room rates are estimated at $4,200.00. Dartmouth will pay your accommodation charge directly, and this charge will be placed on your student account in the Student Financial Services Office.
  • Food, local transportation, and spending money: - a minimum of $4,350.00 is recommended.

The History Department will cover research-related transportation, by means of prepaid individual “Oyster Cards”. You will be given you more information about these later.

You must bring money for all your meals, and I have suggested a total of $4,350, assuming $2,700 for food and $1,650 for out of pocket expenses (for example, dinners out on the town, the theatre, concerts, and entrance fees to museums and galleries, in cases where fees are required). But the amount you spend really depends on your own choices and resources. Remember that food is extraordinarily expensive in London: lunch can easily run the equivalent of $15. On the other hand, according to the University College London website, you can eat a meal at the UCL Student Union for as little as $5. Again, let me reiterate that spending money also depends on your individual lifestyle, such as the frequency of attending the theater and concerts, dining out, and travel plans on weekends and prior to and after the program.


Finances

Take ample money with you; travelers' checks are one way to ensure you have enough, but the most convenient method of accessing funds is through use of an ATM debit card. Be certain to notify the debit card issuer that you will be studying abroad so that your card is not inadvertently cancelled for security reasons. ATM cards work at most banks, but only ATMs for checking accounts, not savings accounts. PLAN AHEAD. Check your credit line on credit cards. You cannot borrow from Dartmouth College.


Communications





Transportation





Personal Safety & Crime





Cultural Tips / Etiquette





Excursions


Rosetta_Stone Hans Hillewaert CC-BY-SA-3.0.PNG
The Rosetta Stone, as displayed in the British Museum (Hans Hillewaert, CC/by-sa/3.0)

Museums are a great option in this city! Try the Sherlock Holmes if you've never been!

Visit the British Museum : it is free and it is one of the world's greatest museum. Its permanent collection (among which the Rosetta Stone) is one of the world's finest.



Athletics and Recreational Activities


Sign up at Freshers’ Fair at the UCL (late September) for a number of sports teams. Here are some other ideas:

American football is on TV late on Monday nights. The ’01 FSP found that iTV carried a football highlight show at 12:25am on Monday nights. Monday Night Football games often followed. Some UCL residence halls, like Ramsey Hall, are wired for SKY cable, and they actually broadcast one NFL game each Sunday live. Usually it’s a 4 p.m. American start that is broadcast live starting at 9 p.m. London time. Various sports bars around London occasionally also show games on Sundays.

A trip to Ascot to see the horse races is a wonderful way to spend a fall afternoon. Located in the English countryside near Windsor, this beautiful track is where the Royal Family has its boxes. Admission is cheap, and betting is purely optional.

Baseball playoffs were sometimes played on TV late at night, but the reception was pretty bad (check the channel’s web pages for listings.) The American Sports Bar was another good option. They kept the bar open for Americans watching games, even when they cleared everyone else out.

Climbing, as in indoor sport climbing, is popular in London. There are good facilities, with rental gear, at Westway, the Castle, and several other sites. Check out the websites.

Football (soccer) is enormously popular in England, but since there are so many teams, it is usually fairly easy to get inexpensive tickets to a league game if you arrive early. Arsenal and Chelsea are the two best in the London area, but tickets are hard to get. Tottenham Hotspur, Wimbledon, and the Queen’s Park Rangers are among the better bets, and all their stadiums are easily accessible by the Tube. Just make sure you’re wearing the home colors. Additionally, if the national team plays a friendly within a few hours of London (or closer; they usually play in Wembley), get tickets and go. It’s worth the trip; just don’t be a hooligan. There are also usually a couple games on every week. For the best of the Premier League’s weekend action, watch the Saturday night extended highlight show; the ‘01s loved it. An ’05 joined one of the loosely-organized soccer leagues that met every Sunday in Hyde Park and played for 3 hours, players are very welcoming and happy to have a new American teammate, even if you can only make a few Sundays.

Golf is big in England and Scotland, and green fees and club rental fees are very reasonable in comparison to those in the U.S. If you are headed for Scotland, a pilgrimage to St. Andrew’s is a must (it’s £30-60 for a round there).

Greyhound races are listed in Time Out. Betting is different than in the U.S., so make sure you know what you are doing.

Inline-skating (rollerblading) is a great activity in London, complementing the walking (at specific times and locations): there are large-scale group skates around central London, including some outings with friendly escorts and music trucks. There are also weekend skates in Hyde Park around The Serpentine (where the pedal-boats are located). Skates can be rented at Slick Willie's, 12 Glouchester Road, within walking distance, south of Hyde Park.

Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park border the Bayswater area and provide excellent grounds for running, walking, or just ambling. Kensington Gardens closes at dusk, and it always safer to run before it starts to get dark. Women probably shouldn’t run alone. These parks also have become the traditional venues for FSP mud football. If you can spare the packing space, there’s no place better to rollerblade, and the British do it by the hundreds.

Lord's Cricket Ground on St. John’s Rd. (St. John’s Wood) is the mecca of world cricket. Many contests are also played at Twickenham.

Queen’s Ice Skating Rink (Queensway) is sort of a teenage trashy hangout, but can be fun.

Regents Park, great place to go running, play tennis, or throw frisbee; and The London Zoo there is a must-see; it’s regarded as one of the two or three best in the world. You can watch amateur rugby or football games on Sunday afternoons.

Rugby. If you are lucky, there may be one or two international test matches while you are in London. Ticket information will be advertised; Twickenham, the English national grounds, is accessible by Network SouthEast. As well, there are plenty of good and not-so-good rugby clubs around London. If there’s a test match at Wembley, get tickets. One student also recommends Twickenham, right across the river from Richmond, as a great place to visit. “It's probably too difficult to get tickets for the actual games,” he said, “but the pub scene down there is great, especially by the river. They have pubs right on the water.”

University of London Union and UCL Union have athletic facilities including a pool (ULU) and weight room (both)—membership required. ULU weight room is a great place to meet Americans. There’s also a few “health clubs” scattered about the city. Be careful; European cleanliness habits are sometime disgusting.

LA Fitness is a gym off Marylebone between Jerome House and Baker St. The 05s joined as a group and got a pretty good discount with a bit of persistence and a promise that their name would appear in this book. The gym had a lot of good classes, great facilities and free personal trainers. In fact, Justin Timberlake worked out there when he was in town! (Girls: see if Johnny and Owen are still there.)

Night life


London clubs may seem prohibitively expensive, but you can get cheap passes for most of them. You can purchase passes at the club itself for later dates, at record stores, and or simply pick up a pass from those who hand them out along Leicester Sq. Leicester Sq. has many clubs, most of which are very touristy. For your best bet in Leicester Sq. hit HOME, and be sure to check it out on student night, when you get discounted admission. Be prepared to spend anywhere from £15 to £30 for admission on a Friday or Saturday for some of the best clubs. If you want to drink, it is advisable to do so beforehand. Also, UCL students partied at the Office. Before going to a club check out its website for special deals or see if you can sign up on its guest list because it usually reduces the cover charge to get in. During the freshers fair at UCL you also can buy tickets to upcoming parties at night clubs.

333, 333 Old St. Shoreditch (Old St.). Home to consistently strong nights of deep house and drum and bass music, one of the standout clubs in the exploding Shoreditch/Hoxton scene.
The Backpacker, 126 York Way (King’s Cross). Our frat away from home. This bar was open later than most, had a pretty young crowd, casual dress, and was cheap. The Backpacker usually has a live cover band or other good dance music.
Camden Palace, 1A Camden Rd., NW1. Probably the most fun mainstream/progressive London club; “feet first’ on Tuesdays recommended.
Cannon’s, Tottenham Court Road (Goodge St.). Close to Endsleigh Court, fun, cheap, open until 2 or 3 a.m.
Dingwalls, Commercial Pl. (Camden Town). Reggae.
Fabric, 77a Charterhouse Street (Farringdon). The definition of a euro-clubbing. Plays only house, techno, and trance and very cool venue. Unusual crowd, and expensive cover. They don’t give a student discount to international students, so when you show them your UCL ID, ask for you ticket in a British accent (seriously).
Herbal, 12-14 Kingsland Rd., Shoreditch, (Old St.). While nothing fancy, this club boasts top house music DJ’s and a relaxed atmosphere in the heart of Shoreditch.
Hippodrome, Leicester Sq. (Leicester Sq.). Trendy, expensive mega-disco; not worth the money. The Fall 2002 group discovered its weekly foam party.
HOME, Leicester Sq. (Leicester Sq.). New, huge, 7 different floors mean 7 different DJ’s and music. Don’t miss it!
Limelight, 136 Shaftesbury Ave. (Leicester Sq.). Expensive drinks; trendy, but a good place.
Mahiki, Dover Street ( Green Park or Picadilly). Upscale club, but cheaper cover on “Mahiki Mondays.” Drinks, atmosphere, and music are good. Make to sign up on guest list online for reduced cover and dress nicely or they may not let you in.
Push, Dean St., Soho (Oxford Circus). A hole-in-the-wall basement bar, Push is open until 2 am (usually) and has surprisingly good DJ’s playing a mix of techno, house and funk. Friendly staff and patrons make this neighborhood bar a good, relaxed destination.
Tras at The End, 16a West Central St., WC1, off of New Oxford St. (Tottenham Court Rd.). Every Monday night resident DJ’s Erol Alkan and Rory Philips play the latest electro and indie tunes with a touch of ‘80s synthpop thrown in for good measure. Fun, artsy crowd and the occasional celebrity-sighting (a group of ‘02s saw Courtney Love) make this a great night out. Expect to wait in line and be subjected to the “rock and roll dress code” inspection at the door.
The Wag Club, 35 Wardour St. (Tottenham Court Rd.). Stylish house-music club; arrive early; good on Fridays.
Zoo Bar, 13-17 Bear St (Picadilly). Large club, great environment, good music. Sign up on the guest list to get in easily. Some of the 08 History and Government FSP students celebrated homecoming there and it was great.

For those with such tastes, London has the world’s best goth and death rocker clubs. Recommended are:

Electric Ballroom, 184 Camden High St., NW1. Death rockers on Fridays; dance fusion on Saturdays. During the day you can buy interesting vintage clothing there.
Gossips, 69 Dean St. (Tottenham Court Rd.). Psychedelic rock on Mondays.
Paramount City, Great Windmill St. (Piccadilly Circus). Arrive early for “go west”; packed goth venue on Saturdays.
The Sanctuary, Hungerford Ln. (Charing Cross). The favorite gothic punk club in London; Wednesdays and Fridays.

Pubs


The Queen Vic, London, photo courtesy Matt Pearson (license by2.0).png
The Queen Vic, London, photo courtesy Matt Pearson (CC/by/2.0)

An English pub is more than a place to get a pint of beer; it is a way of life in the British Isles. The pub is a uniquely British institution which actually dates from Roman times. For the American student, the pub can provide a wonderful insight into English life as well as free entertainment and a source of traditional pub grub. Beer of the sort one is used to in Hanover is called “lager.” Most of the British prefer “bitter” which is less carbonated, darker, and served at room temperature. The best bitters are designated “real ale” and are hand pumped and non-carbonated. Two other types of beer are known as “mild,” which is (as you’d expect) milder than bitter, and Guinness, the heaviest ale sold. Note that alcohol content of British beer varies between 1.5% and 11.5% and that a British pint equals a gargantuan 20 fluid ounces. For a change try British cider—a deceptively alcoholic drink made out of very fermented apples that you can order by the pint in any pub. Be wary of Strongbow. You can also mix the beer with cider, the result a tasty “snakebite” which is popular among university students.

Pub grub, photo courtesy Sean Whitton (license CC-by-sa3.0).png
Pub grub, photo courtesy Sean Whitton (CC/by-sa/3.0)

Pub grub is quintessentially English (a statement that must be considered in light of earlier comments on English cuisine) and usually consists of meat pies (including the ever-popular steak and kidney pie), sausage rolls, soup, sandwiches, something known as a “ploughman’s lunch” (involving a hunk of cheese, bread, salad and pickles), and of course, fish and chips. In most, you should order at the bar and choose your own seat.

Here is a list of some favorite pubs, but be sure to go out and discover some on your own! Don’t forget about the college pubs—a great way to meet students. Some ‘99s found the pubs at King’s College and the London School of Economics cheap and fun. There are over 1,000 pubs in the greater London area—be adventurous, but also try to be considerate to the regulars. Please note that any place advertising itself as a “Genuine English Pub” probably isn’t.


Allsop Arms, 137 Gloucester Rd. (Baker St. or Marylebone).
Burlington Burtie’s (Shaftsbury Arc, Picadilly Circus). A must; the best pub in London; open until 1 a.m.

Carnivoran Castle (Camden Town). Pub with live music most every night. See Shadey Vic’s Blues Band every Sunday. Frequent discounts on drinks.

Cleveland Arms, Chilworth St. (Bayswater). Fun place.

Cockney Pride, Piccadilly Circus (Piccadilly). Features a ragtime piano player, lots of fun.

The Court (Warrant Street). Close by UCL, two levels, casual place.

Dickens’ Inn, St. Katherine’s Way (Tower Hill). Great view of Tower Bridge, good food, classy, a little more expensive and dressy; a walk from the Tube station. Restaurant is also good.

The Duke of York, on George St. (Edgeware Rd.). Local pub the ‘00s frequented. Interesting locals, rowdy football discussions and a great owner. The food here (from a restaurant upstairs) is excellent and worth the trip.

The Firkin Pubs (multiple locations). A London chain with two dozen locations. One, the Friar & Firkin, is a short walk from Endsleigh Court. Win a free T-shirt if you can drink a pint in every Firkin Pub in the same day—start early!

The Fox and Anchor, 115 Charterhouse St. (Barbican). Be sure to try their mixed grill.

The Globe, multiple locations including Baker St. Tube.

Gordon’s Wine Bar, 47 Villiers St. (Charing Cross). Overlooks the Embankment.

The Hope and Anchor, Smithfield (Farringdon). A must for lunch the day of the Charterhouse tour.

Jeremy Bentham’s (University St., right near UCL). Good local pub.

Marlboro Arms, Tottenham Court Rd. (Tottenham Ct. Rd.). Cold or hot lunch or dinner for the tools at the Senate House.

Metropolitan Bar (Baker St. Tube) Expansive, cheap bar above the Baker St. Tube station. Good drink deals and comfy chairs.

Museum Tavern, 49 Great Russell St. (Holborn or Tottenham Court Rd.). Mix of researchers and tourists; Karl Marx wrote here.

O’Neils, Warren St. (near Fitzhugh).

The Pillars of Hercules, Greek Street, across from the old BUFVC—a favorite lunch spot for the ‘92 year. A good place to test Nigel’s theory on viewing tests (ask).

The Pindar of Wakefield, 328 Grays Inn Rd. (Chancery Lane). Lenin used to rent a flat above this pub; Dixieland jazz in the evenings.

Pride of Paddington, Praed St. (Paddington). Good food.

Prince Alfred, Queensway (Bayswater). Good live music.

The Prince of Wales, Drury Lane (Covent Garden). Jazz on the weekends; artsy kind of place.

Punch & Judy’s, Covent Garden (Covent Garden). Near site of first English showing of Punch & Judy; yuppie bar.

The Royal George (Euston). A few blocks away from Endsleigh Court; a good place to go when you don’t want to travel far.

The Rocket(Euston Road). Nearby the British Library. Good burger deals and cheap beer and drink specials on Saturdays. Casual environment, bring student ID for entry.

The Ship, Lincoln’s Inn Fields (Holborn).

The Slug and Lettuce, Hereford Rd., off Queensway (Bayswater). Main ‘91 hangout; lots of American students.

The Spice of Life, Cambridge Circus (Leicester Square). Lunch spot for the ’00 FSP; very good stews and close to the old BUFVC; very yuppie. Good place to get Nigel going for the afternoon.

The Star Tavern, Belgrave Mews (Hyde Park Corner). Christine Keeler once worked here.

The Swan (Lancaster Gate). Good Sunday lunch; overlooks Kensington Park.

Texas Lone Star Cafe, Queensway (Bayswater). Ribs ‘n’ burgers.

The Three Tuns, in basement of the Clare Market Building at UCL. Very cheap; good place to start the evening.

University of London Student Union Pub, Gower St. (Warren St.). Great place to meet British students.

The Windeyer Lounge (Russell Square). Lounge-type bar in the basement of one of the UCL dorms (Windeyer) near the Med School. Sort of clubby-a bit like Dartmouth frats, but you get to pay for stale beer here.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Ct. (Aldwych). Famous for pudding served from October to April; traditional haunt of Dr. Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith.



Arts & Culture


Movies


Movie going is serious business in London. Tickets are expensive and seats are reserved. Many of the big theaters offer advance reserve seating, with alcohol and ice cream for sale in the lobby. Before each feature, about 20 minutes of advertisements and previews are shown. Although American films arrive in London several months after opening in the States, you can see British and European films long before they get to America—if they ever do. Besides current releases, London has many theaters dedicated to showing classic or specialty films (for instance, a sing-along Sound of Music). Finally, be alert for the many film festivals held in London (ask Nigel)—the London Film Festival is in early October. Monday nights are cheaper at some London movie theaters. See Time Out for listings. Sometimes there is a student discount. However, beware – cinema in London is much more expensive than it is in the U.S.; be selective about your viewing, and look into matinees. The Prince Albert Theater, Leicester Square (Picadilly Circus or Leicester Square) shows revival and foreign films with matinee tickets priced at only £1.99. ABC cinemas always have student fares for @ £2.50.

Music


London is an amazing place for any kind of music. Impromptu concerts in a park, along the sidewalk, or in a pub are always an experience. There are often street performers at Covent Garden—some of whom are fairly talented—and musicians at Tube stations also make their cultural contribution to the city.

London is an important worldwide center of classical music. Many performing groups and venues give way to wonderful performances. The two primary centers are the South Bank Center’s Royal Festival Hall (Waterloo), and the Barbican Center (Barbican or St. Paul’s). Both offer student prices for best available seats the day of the concert. Call for information on concerts and prices. The Royal Academy of Music has inexpensive or free concerts by talented young musicians. For Opera, the English National Opera (Covent Garden) and the Royal Opera at Covent Garden are your two options, and both offer somewhat discounted student tickets. For Ballet, Fall 2001 students queued up early for the Nutcracker.You have to look closely, but you can find classical concerts in Time Out that are free with a Student ID but would cost upwards of £20 otherwise.

For jazz, try Ronnie Scott’s and the 100 Club (Tottenham Court Rd.). Boisdale (Victorian Station) has a nice bar, classy jazz and free entry before 10 on Friday nights.

Every Monday at 4:00 p.m. the Boys’ Choir at St. Paul’s performs the Evensong Service. This is not only a chance to listen to beautiful music, but you will also gain an insight into the services of the high Church of England. Many churches—such as St. Martin-in-the-Fields—have music series.

The Royal Albert Hall (South Kensington or High Street Kensington) holds a variety of concerts ranging from opera and classical to rock music. It is worth going to a concert just to see the Hall.

London is a great place to see rock shows. Most concerts happen in late Fall, but buy your tickets early. A complete list of concerts can be obtained free at the Astoria Theatre on Charing Cross Rd., near the BUFVC, or in any Time Out copy. Also, a big act will occasionally pop into a local club for a free show; sometimes these will even be advertised a few days in advance.

Theater


Take advantage of the fact that you will be in London for eleven weeks and plan ahead. Buy your tickets early for the best and cheapest seats. A copy of the London Theatre Guide (with listings) can be picked up at any theater.

The Half-Price Ticket Booth at Leicester Square sells half-price tickets to a number of shows for that day. The booth opens at 10 AM on weekdays and noon on Sunday. Other discount ticket booths in London are less reliable than the official Half-Price Ticket Booth. A better, cheaper way to get tickets, however, is to get student rates directly at theater box offices. These prices are usually between £5-£15. If you want to see a particular show, call the box office and see if tickets are available for that night. If so, take your ISIDs and arrive at the box office about half an hour before show time. If no seats are available for that show, have another option in mind. Keep in mind some shows do not give any discounts at the box office. If you are flexible and persistent, you can see any show you want for a reasonable price. Another way to get tickets to the popular shows is through the many ticket agencies located all around London. They sometimes will give you a good price on tickets if you are willing to go that same day. Finally, it is often easier to get tickets for the weekday matinees than for the evening shows.

The Barbican Theatre (Barbican or St. Paul’s). In the Barbican Center, offers some great theater—notably the Royal Shakespeare Company.

The National Theatre (Waterloo). Across the river in the Southbank Arts Centre—also has marvelous offerings. Both are located in thriving cultural centers which are worth going to just to see the variety of events taking place. The ‘00s saw, among others, Sir Ian McKellan perform here.

Speaking of Shakespeare, the replica of his Globe Theatre is open (on the south bank of the Thames, between London Bridge and the Tate Modern) and will perform Shakespeare and non-Shakespeare alike throughout the early fall (look into this early in the term before it closes for the season). Make sure you see a play at the Globe before it closes for the season. A pilgrimage to Stratford-upon-Avon is a must. It is possible to take a train out just for the day and get back to London after the evening show. (Also new, direct bus service to Stratford just began which is probably the cheapest and fastest way to get there.) Stratford is also a beautiful town just to visit, but it’s an added thrill to see one of the Bard’s plays performed at his birthplace. Have tickets or reservations before you go.

And, don’t neglect the fringe theaters in London. You can see some great shows at very little cost!


Shopping


Save money by packing a bag lunch or cooking yourself!
  • Tescos has a branch off Tottenham Court Rd. on Goodge St. and is a well stocked chain.
  • There’s a Safeway branch on Edgeware Rd.
  • Many of the 05s went the extra mile and shopped at Waitrose, a very nice grocery chain on the ultra-posh Marylebone High Street.
  • Sainsbury’s is another good store with a location very close to UCL near the Warren St. tube stop. It is reasonably priced, and often has sales on produce. There are many locations throughout the city.
  • Marks and Spencer is more expensive but has excellent food. The 04s and 05s came to love Marks and Spencers (also called Marks and Sparks or M&S). They have great cookies (try them!), along with microwavable dishes. The pizza is excellent. Most of the food is pre-made, which solves all of your cooking dilemmas for a small price premium, but they have staples such as milk and bread as well.
  • Budgens is also a good chain, and Cullens stores stay open late and have a good bakery. All have branches on Tottenham Court Rd., and Edgeware Road.
  • When you go shopping pick up some digestive biscuits, they’re delicious, especially the chocolate covered ones.
  • London’s many open-air vegetable markets are great for fruits and vegetables. The market at Nottinghill has a great food section towards the end, with very cheap produce – try and find the stand where fruit is sold in plastic bowls. Others include the Berwick St. market between Soho Square and Leicester Square, but you will be certain to stumble on many more.
  • If you are longing for tea, which is a great, cheap drink, try Wittard’s. This tea shop has an excellent store in Covent Garden, but they can be found throughout the city. They have great free tea samples, and all the tea goodies you could ever need. For a great gift – or for yourself – you can make your own tea as well.

Every second Friday, the 04s found that Covent Garden was home to the Fine Foods Fair. This is an incredible event where farmers, and small food producers from all over England come and sell anything from venison burgers, to tea, to mushroom pesto. Some of the food is a little pricey, but you can make a meal out of the free samples. It is well worth at least an afternoon. Check it out.



Connections / Internships






Restaurants


Eating in London is quite an experience! The British do not enjoy the reputation of being the world’s best cooks. Be prepared for wretched sandwiches, mayonnaise on everything, and a plethora of prawns.However, fort the most part, British food tends to be better than advertised, especially with a high immigrant population in London, and with a little detective work it is possible to find decent and inexpensive meals.

The Common Market, by allowing unlimited migration among the EU countries, has been a positive influence on British dining, as French and Italian restaurants now proliferate in London. You should experience five o’clock tea at one of London’s ritzy hotels:
  • The Dorchester or Grosvenor House on Park Lane (Marble Arch or Hyde Park Corner)
  • Claridge’s on Brook Street (Bond Street)
  • The Orangery at Kensington Palace – have tea in Princess Diana’s palace for about £10 each, elegant ambiance and great tea, too! The Ritz on Piccadilly (Piccadilly); no jeans allowed
  • The Savoy
  • Brown’s Hotel on Dover and Albemarle Street (Green Park).

Be prepared to spend between £25-£45 per person for a full formal tea (champagne optional). High tea is a great experience – picture swanky rooms, harps, the height of refinement – and it is a full meal in itself. Don’t miss it! Another must is Harrod’s all-you-can-eat pastry tea every afternoon from 4-5 p.m. Also, Richoux was a Fall 2001 favorite with sandwiches, hot drink, scones and jam and a pastry for £10 per person.

There are restaurants offering a variety of foods at a variety of prices. Here are a few tried and true places that you might want to visit (the parenthetical reference is to the nearest Tube station). Also consult Let’s Go, Lonely Planet and don’t be afraid to explore on your own. Bolded items are the recent group’s favorites.

Afghan Kitchen, 35 Islington Green (Angel). Good, relatively inexpensive Afghan food. Cozy, comfortable atmosphere. Worth checking out if you’re in North London.
American Sports Bar, near the Picadilly Tube stop (walk toward Leicester Sq. and take a right at the fountain with the horses). A little pricey, but a fun atmosphere where American football abounds. Great for Thanksgiving.
Belgo Centrale, 50 Earlham Street (Covent Garden). Belgian biergarden. Specializes in mussels. Waiters wear monk’s habits. You are charged from 5:30 on the basis of when you order (this lasts until 7)—so get there early, and also enjoy the complimentary shots of flavored genevers provided with your meal.
Bella pasta (multiple locations). Great Italian food and open late.
Bengal Tandoori, Queensway (Bayswater). Excellent Indian food at a reasonable price.
Benjys (multiple locations). Quick food like omelets. The ‘01s frequented the one on Oxford St. right near the BUFVC. Good place to get candy for film class.
Boots (many locations). An all-purpose store in the like CVS with a good “take away” selection of sandwiches, snacks and drinks. Great for a meal on the go.
Cafe Capuccetto (Tottenham Court Rd.). Great pastries and coffee, down the street from the BUFVC. Also, Italian restaurant with the same name across the street.
Cafe Uno (multiple locations). Good Italian food; ‘00s and ‘01s had dinner there as a group on the first night.
Chicago Pizza Pie Factory, 17 Hanover Sq. (Oxford Circus). Delicious Chicago-style pizza, American atmosphere.
Chiquitos, (Leicester Square). Fun bar/restaurant; light-hearted Mexican atmosphere.
Churchill Hotel Coffee Shop, Portman Sq. (Marble Arch). Excellent eggs Benedict on Sundays.
Cornwall Pasty Marylebone tube station. Pasties are like portable pot pies with different types of stuffings. A wonderful meal on the go.
Costa Coffee (multiple locations). Delicious chain eatery with great coffee drinks, pastries, and paninis. Great place to buy a drink and do work.
Crank’s (multiple locations, including Tottenham St. near corner of Tottenham Court Rd., also a store in Covent Garden). Vegetarian food at reasonable prices. Cozy atmosphere. The Collis of London.
Deep Pan Pizza (multiple locations). Cheap, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet.
The Dell Restaurant, (Hyde Park). Try the pumpkin soup.
Don Pepe, on Tottenham Court Rd. ‘98s preferred this over Ask (ripoff and bad service) which is just around the corner.
Drummond Street (Euston Square), a street right off North Gower lined with many reasonably priced Indian dining options and snack stores. Definitely check it out because it is very close to UCL
The Giraffe, multiple locations including 6-8 Blanford Street (Baker of Bond). Weekday special of cheap set menu and 2 for 1 drinks if you order between 5 and 7. Exotic, fun cuisine (and very attractive waitstaff).
Golden Shalamar, Spring St. (Paddington). Good Indian food
Hard Rock Cafe, 150 Old Park Lane (Hyde Park Corner). An American institution in London, great burgers and catsup, and relatively inexpensive. Go when homesick.
Harrod's Food Halls (Knightsbridge). An experience not to be missed. (But you can’t always dine in.)
Il Centrale (Tottenham Court Rd.). Good, cheap Italian food. Try the minestrone soup! Big haunt for the ‘00 FSP during lunch break from Nigel.
Il Fornello, 150 Southampton Row (Holborn). Great Italian food. Traditional History FSP farewell dinner often held here.
La Perla Bar & Grill, (Covent Garden). Good Mexican food.
Lemonia, 89 Regents Park Road, (Chalk Farm). Professor Shewmaker extols this restaurant as the best Greek restaurant ever.
Marquis of Granby, Cambridge Circus (Tottenham Court Rd. or Leicester Sq.). Nigel’s haunt, near the BUFVC.
Melati, Great Windmill St. (Picadilly Sq.)
Masala Zone, 9 Marshall St. Soho and other locations in London
Mr. King’s. Lisle street (Picadilly Sq./Leicester Sq.)
Opus 70 (multiple locations). Where the ‘00s had Thanksgiving dinner. A step up from our usual venue, and affordable as a FSP dinner.
Pizza Paradiso, Store St., very close to Senate House. Excellent food and atmosphere.
Pollo (in Chinatown). Seek it out. Cheap, delicious Italian food, wine.
Pride of India Buffet, Inverness Terrace (a block east of Queensway). £5 all-you-can eat vegetarian buffet with a pretty good selection. Buffet with chicken and other meat dishes costs £7.
Printroom Café (UCL Campus). Right on UCL’s campus, this café has reasonably priced pastries, coffees, and meals. Nice place to do work and check emails after class. Gets busy and has a Collis-like feel.
Richoux (multiple locations). For afternoon tea
Sand’s, Kingsway (between Holborn Tube and LSE). Good sandwiches though slightly odd combinations.
Star Café, in Soho, very close to the film class. The 04s went here every Wednesday for incredible sandwiches. The 05s weren’t crazy about it, however.
Starbucks, (everywhere) This may sound strange, but throughout London (and Europe) some of the nicest real estate is owned by Starbucks. On late nights when you want to study past 9:30 or lazy days when you don’t want to go to UCL, most Starbucks have wireless access and can be a very pleasant place to spend some time working. Check out the one on Baker St.
Some Potato and Beans Bar, Old Compton St. (Leicester Sq.). Good cheap lunch.
St. Christopher’s Place, (Bond Street). Not a single restaurant, but a place to find Tootsie’s, and great Thai food.
Texas Embassy, Grosvenor Square. Fun. American. A little pricey.
Wagamama (multiple locations). Japanese noodle bar. Fast, funky, and affordable. Excellent food, a favorite of the 01s, 04s and 05s.
The Upper Pie Shop, Newman Arms, 23 Rathbone Street, near BUFVC. This is Nigel Mace’s favorite spot for lunch; try the tasty English pies. Be sure to make reservations.
The Wetherspoon, get two meals for five pounds.
Wok Wok, just around the corner from the old Film Institute (Tottenham Ct. Rd.). Incredibly tasty Southeast Asian food.
Wright’s Bar, Houghton St. (next to LSE). Deli-type food.
Yalla’s, Main St. (St. John’s Wood). Terrific, relatively cheap Lebanese/Middle Eastern food. Favorite of the ’01 FSPers.

It’s tough to make a recommendation about Chinatown; the best advice is head over to the pedestrian walkway on Gerard St. and try out some places for yourselves. For the most part, the food is excellent anywhere you go. Mr. King’s crispy duck is fabulous and there is a bakery on the main strip as well. Be WARY of 5£ too cheap to be true Chinese buffets, some of the 05s nearly died as a result!

For Middle Eastern food, try the Edgeware Road area (Edgeware Rd. or Marble Arch). Kebabs and falafel abound there, although some places are better than others. There are also very friendly people in the area, so ask for help in finding the best eateries. Additionally, there is road just behind the Warren Street Tube stop that offers very cheap, mostly vegetarian Indian buffets. Indian food also has a home in London, although it’s somewhat scattered. Look around.

If you are in a hurry, or craving a taste of home, American fast food chains abound. McDonald’s (with great McFlurry flavors!), Burger King and KFC’s predominate. If you came to London to escape Americana, try the British version of fast food at one of the many sandwich shops around the city. These stands tend to be reasonable in price, and are good for lunch on the run. Pret a Manger is a popular chain. Or, for more authenticity, why not stop at a pub? Typically they serve only lunch, not dinner, and they’re relatively cheap.



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